Archive for the ‘Outside of Lima’ Category

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Dreaming of a white Christmas?

December 21, 2009

My next visit to Europe is under way.  I am currently sat in the airport at Amsterdam waiting for them to call my delayed connection to Madrid.  So far it’s 2 hours late.  This is probably a good thing as the flight from Lima was late too.  It’s all a knock on effect from the snow in Northern Europe (which Anna assures me is not going to fall where she is.  As I only have one jumper and one waterproof jacket with me it’s probably a good thing…)

The flight from Lima was fun as always.  Made all the more delightful as there was a Peruvian family with 2 small children (and the nanny in uniform) behind me, and a large man, who snored loudly and passed wind constantly, sat next to me. I didn’t really sleep.  I did watch Aladdin though – and finally worked out who Sebastian Ferreyros reminds me of…  I am now completely jet lagged – my body clock is telling me it’s about 11.30 am, but I’m sat looking out into a dark winter’s night!  I really want to sleep and still have to fly to Madrid, navigate the underground and find the hotel.  I am also considering buying Mario Kart and Wii Sing from the airport shop, but don’t think I can get them in my bag just now! Maybe on the way back…

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Jungle diaries – 14th May

July 30, 2008

A very disappointing colpa – plenty of birds around, but they were nervous and didn’t come onto the clay. The lack of a telescope and getting stung by a STUPID bee that had crawled up my trouser leg and then got stuck didn’t help matters either! There were a couple of beautiful flashes when the birds got spooked by a vulture and a muscovy duck (neither of which predate macaws…) We also saw violaceous jays, orupendulas, a nun bird and heard a flycatcher.

Orupendula

Orupendula

After a well needed shower and breakfast we had an hour to doss about and I got talking to some Aussie tourists and had a look at their photos. They don’t seem too hacked off that there are 20 kids ‘ruining’ their dream holiday, which is great really!

We then went to the bowl with Harry to look for caymen. We found them, but couldn’t catch any! We saw some other great wildlife on the way there and back. The battle between the Golden Orb Spider and a random wasp for the corpse of the dragon fly was enthralling – a rare sight indeed. In the end the inevitable happened and the spider, irritated past endurance by the wasp, shot some silk at it and wound it up to save for postre… We also got very close to a couple of curious dusky titi monkeys and came across fresh evidence of anteater activity.

Golden orb spider

Golden orb spider

At the bowl itself, besides the myriad of dragonflies, damselflies, sandflies and other miscellaneous fly-type things, we saw a pair of tiger herons, some Spinx’s guan, a lizzard, and what may have been a cardinal bird. We also saw a beautiful orupendula and a pair of bright green, small birds that were a gorgeous metallic colour and are as yet unidentified. Perhaps a green kingfisher or a honey creeper. I favout the latter, Harry the former…

Dusky Titi monkey

Dusky Titi monkey

On returning to the lodge I spotted a largeish (30 cm mas o menos) lizzard under the boot removal place. It ran as soon as it saw us, but was pretty non the less.

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Jungle Diaries – 13th May

July 28, 2008

The 0445 start for the Colpa made last nights decision to do the night walk seem very foolish – still, it was worth it to see the tarantulas…

The colpa was good – not as sunny as last week, but pleanty of good views, and as the kids weren’t that interested I got to use the telescope a lot and saw loads of different birds including; mealy parrots, dusky headed parrots, orange cheeked parrots (which are absolutely beautiful) and a couple of woodpeckers and a flock of orupendula.

After breakfast I went out with the mammals group looking for mammals or signs thereof (and socretea trees – the group’s project was to see if there was any relationship between the perimeter of the roots and the height of the tree. You see – it is a science trip and not just a great holiday…) We didn’t see any mammals (although some peccaries saw us and scarpered before we got to them :( ) but we did find some trumpeter birds, some dung beetles and LOTS of socratea trees.

Trumpeter birds

Trumpeter birds

After lunch I fell asleep in the hammock. I woke up to find all of the kids had gone on their second activity so I went to bed and woke up about half an hour before dinner, just in time to download some of my pictures onto Harry’s laptop before eating.

Weird caterpillar

Weird caterpillar

After dinner I went out to look at the insects and saw a couple of species I hadn’t seen before including a beautiful white moth, only about 2 cm across, that looked like it had been edged with gold leaf! Nature throws up the most amazing things really when you think about it!

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Jungle diaries day 9

July 12, 2008

I can not believe the kids here! I am the first teacher up at 0630 and there are some kids up and working! Amazing! Less amazing are their manners – they take a LONG time to tidy everything away for meals and you have to ask them about 20 times before they do anything. It was amazing how much faster it was when we said they weren’t getting any food until they’d done it properly…

We had a good walk to the palm swamp and back this morning, the group were MUCH better that yesterday and I had plenty of time to talk to the guide, which was lovely. I was still too much of a wuss to go up the tower though. On out way to the swamp we saw a tiny lizard eating a small insect it had just caught, which was nice.

Aguaje palm in the palm swamp

Aguaje palm in the palm swamp

The main species of palm in the palm awamp is the aguaje palm (Mauritia flexuosa) which has tasty fruit liked by the blue and yellow macaws that nest in the trees and also by monkeys. More recently humans have developed a taste for them and have been cutting down the trees to get to the fruit. One of the local projects has been to teach local people how to climb the trees and harvest the fruit sustainably and provide them with the climbing equipment they need to do it. Isn’t conservation wonnderful!

We got back about an hour and a half before lunch, ample time to shower, change, and play a few rounds of cards with Geoff before they all went to do a LONG transect and I did some marking (see – it was work, not a holiday…) to the deafening sound of “Macaw Wars” going on in on of the trees – at least 4 pairs of scarlet macaws were fighting over a nest hole in the tree behind the lodge. As I’m used to the sound of screaming macaws while I’m trying to work (there are some in the mini zoo behind my classroom) I managed to
get my marking finished just before it got dark and the geography kids returned.

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Jungle diaries day 8 ish

June 10, 2008

The colpa was slightly disappointing on the macaw front but we saw a number of other birds. When we got back for breakfast one of the biology kids looked at me in utter pity and said ‘you had to go to the colpa again, how boring! You’ve already been twice…’ They have absolutely no idea at all how awesome this opportunity is!

Macaws

After breakfast I went with a group into the terra firme forest (the bit that doesn’t flood). We had 2 guides with us, one of the more experienced guides (Claudia) and another guide who has not worked on our school trip before. Once she had been shown the best part of the forest for the activity and the kids had started quadrating, Claudia and I went off on our own. It was FANTASTIC, we saw loads of birds, including 2 white throated jacamar, blue throated guan, flycatchers, a smooth billed anis, some song birds and a puff bird of some sort. The white throated Jacamar are only found in this area of peru and nowhere else in the whole world – how cool! We also got a SUPERB view of the macaws. We also saw some fresh Jaguar poo (there weren’t many dung beetles there yet…) and some rather nice fresh tapir footprints.

blue throated piping guan

Lunch was followed by an hours nap and another foray into the forest. I felt absolutely lousy after the short nap and really didn’t want to go out into the jungle with a bunch of noisy students, who argue with each other all the time, however I’m really glad I did! We saw a troop of spider monkeys go past – to see them in the wild is phenomenal – the grace and ease with which they move through the trees, using their tail as an extra limb and the speed is breathtaking. Add to that the cuteness of one of the females who was carrying a baby on her back, unbelievable!

The group were quite slow (and really inaccurate!) with their tree beating and quadrating and it was after dark when we headed back to the lodge. On our way we passed a tarantula nest and saw the babies and adults scuttling to safety – wow!

Tarantula

The night walk after dinner was good too, we saw a tree frog, a number of katydids, crickets, grasshoppers, wolf spiders and some kind of weird insecty/arachnidy type of thing that is not a true spider, but isn’t an insect either. There was also a salamander and no cayman. Iwent staright to bed, and quickly fell asleep, when we got back, fully contented with a sighting packed day!

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Jungle diaries days 4 – 7…

June 10, 2008

Much activity (and reading) has meant I neglected to keep my diary for a couple of days…

The transect activity was interesting, through the forest from the flood plain to the palm swamp looking at the distribution of 4 palm species. Quite a noisy activity so saw no wildlife apart from a pair of very surprised Spix’s guan (Penelope jacquacu) that stumbled into our path! We did get quite good at identifying palms though…

trees

Another good meal, an hour looking at insects, 5 hours sleep and a colpa later and I was back out into the jungle again, this time on the hunt for evidence of mammals. The forest was badly flooded about 2 weeks ago (as it does every 30 years or so) and so there was a fresh covering of mud everywhere making tracks really easy to see! Evidence of peccaries, paca, agouti, cayman (not a mammal), ocelot, tapir, capybara and coati (but no actual mammals) was abundant, and we got some VERY good casts of the prints using wax. We did eventually come across some live mammals – a group of red howler monkeys having a siesta! After lunch I fell asleep and woke up at dusk having missed an afternoon’s fishing.

Ocelot tracks

As I’d had a lazy afternoon I decided to go on the night walk. We wandered into the jungle armed only with our torches on the lookout for the telltale reflection of eyes. We saw a fair bit of stuff – wolf spiders, a tree frog, a wolf spider eating a tiny tree frog, some moths (attracted by our torchlight) and some bats (attracted by the moths) but nada mas.

The following morning I slept in until 5am when I got up to accompany the kids on the birds activity. We set 2 mist nets and waited, checking every 15 mins (the optimum balance between scaring the birds away and leaving them exposed to predators in the nets). At 0730 when we went in for breakfast we’d caught nada. After breakfast we did catch a male plain throated wren, measured him and then let him go. We then had quite a long break before going out to the palm swamp to measure the biodiversity of the various regions of the forest using the Simpsons biodiversity index. I’d never heard of it before so it was good for me to learn some new ecology stats!

netting birds

At the end of the walk was a 15m high scaff tower, built by the National Geographic to photograph the blue and yellow macaws that nest in the aguaje palms, which we climbed without harnesses or helmets – slightly different from UK health and safety. I only got half way up before I got too scared and had to stop. I’m not too good with heights! The walk back to the lodge was uneventful and after a good meal and a little time to read I went to bed happy that I was getting a lie in the next day.

the tower

The lie in was spoiled slightly by the amount of noise the kids made getting up for the colpa at 0430 but I dozed off again to the sounds of insects chirruping and birds starting their dawn chorus. I got up at 7 – what luxury! After breakfast Myself and Sandro were taken on a walk by Harry. We went to an area called ‘ the bowl’. It was fantastic! The scenery was amazing and the bowl was beautiful, a sort of swamp with quite unique ecosystem compared to the rest of the forest.

Harry in the bowl

We saw LOADS of dragon flies and damsel flies and other arthropods as well as getting very close to a rufescent tiger heron and a pair of razor billed curasow. Best of all we saw a lot of small (30 – 50 cm I’d guess) cayman in one of the pools. On the way back we saw a family of Taira (pole-cat family) making their way through the forest, que lindo, but also quite smelly (they are mustelids after all).

Cayman

After lunch there was a little time to rest before we went off for a ‘pechanga’ (that may not be the right way to spell it!) – a thank you football game with the local staff from the lodge. Despite being roughly half the height of the Markham lads, and playing barefoot (and despite 3 of the lads playing for national sports teams) they hosts won 8 – 1. To be fair to the kids the conditions of the pitch are not really what they are used to! Ankle deep clarty mud is not a common feature in Lima. Afterward, to get rid of the mud, we went for a mud-fight and swim in the river. Much fun was had by all…

Sunset on the river

After tea and thank yous the kids got stuck into the booklets that they should have been completing after each activity. By all accounts some of them were up VERY late, I’d gone to bed at 11 as by that point I wasn’t being much help!

Another lie in and then a struggle to get the kids to finish their booklets, get packed, tidy the rubbish out of their rooms etc. Then there was the shoe episode… but that’s another story entirely! The majority of the kids, Harry, 2 of the guides and Sandro went back towards Puerto Moldonado and I stayed with the kids that were fortunate enough to do geography as well! The seven of them (well 6 – 1 had his leg in plaster and couldn’t do the longer or wetter walks!) and 2 guides got a packed lunch and went for a walk to the bowl, where we hoped to catch cayman. We didn’t see any cayman at all this time, but we did see squirrel monkeys, a saddle backed tamarind, some stranded fish (the water level in the bowl had dropped a lot overnight!) and more curasows. We ate our pack-up (rice and chicken wrapped in leaves) on a bench overlooking the forest with pairs of macaws flying past – bliss! Back at the lodge we saw the taira again and an agouti :) We got back in plenty of time to have a shower and a ‘rask’ (a Harry-ism. He’s an Aussie and often comes up with Spanglish slang, the derivatives of which are often a little risqué to use at school really, but he seems to get away with it! ‘Rasking’ comes from a Spanish term meaning to scratch one’s balls apparently, although most of the kids seemed to think it was an English word…) while we waited for the next group to arrive.

Squirrel monkey

The geographers are better behaved than the biology lot that have just gone, and Geoff has them well trained (and there are fewer of them which always helps!). Going to the colpa again tomorrow – can’t wait!

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Jungle diaries – Day 3 5th May

June 2, 2008

I didn’t feel too bad at 5 am as we started through the forest towards the boat. The sunrise was again beautiful! We travelled about 5 minutes upriver to the colpa (clay lick), disembarked and sat to watch. My first colpa was a little disappointing, not because of the birds, but because of the attitude of the kids.

Colpa

There weren’t too many birds at the colpa (it’s a friaje after all) but the noise and the colours were still awesome – macaws, parrots, parakeets, parrotlets and other birds all sitting in the trees or eating the clay. Without binoculars some of the detail was difficult to see, but the sight of the entire flock taking off when startled was stunning.

The kids were completely disinterested, which was a bit of a shame – maybe the higher group will be more enthusiastic next week! By then the friaje should be over and there should be more birds should be about.

Breakfast was VERY welcome after a long morning! So much so that I had double helpings (this is becoming a habit – the food is great and we’re busy all day so I’m always really hungry at mealtimes) There was some kind of banana-oat drink, scrambled egg cooked to perfection, 3 sorts of bread and jam.

Activity 1 was an ‘ecology’ walk through the jungle looking at examples of adaptation, competition etc. as well as looking for evidence of nutrient cyling. The guide was really knowledgeable and we saw LOADS of plants, including a strangler fig, the famous walking palm (that can move 2 – 5 cm/y) some saddlebacked tamarinds, army ants, leaf cutter ants, a bullet ant (so called because it’s bite is supposed to be as painful as being shot) and many tracks, such as ocelot, peckaries, armadillo, paca and coati. We also found and tasted termites. The sheer number of different species here is staggering!

Walking palm

Lunch was excellent, yet more tasty traditional peruvian food. The lodge displays the menu including the ingrediants, history of the dish and full instructions for making it. I may copy one or two out before I go! There had been enough time before lunch to have a shower (cold but very welcome) and a small nap on one of the hammocks! During lunch we saw 2 dusky titi monkeys in the trees outside the dining room. It’s not everyday that you get to watch wild monkeys while you eat. At the end of lunch we were visited by a cappuchin monkey eating fruit from the trees on the edge of the clearing. 3 species of monkey by lunchtime – great! After lunch there was just enough time to get back into my muddy clothes before going back out intot he forest to take a transect (or rather to watch the kids do it!)

Cappuchin monkey

I am loving it here, totally shattered, but such a nice change from the city!

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Jungle diaries day 2 – 4th May 2008

May 25, 2008

Once the kids were quiet I slept well and was woken at 4-20 am by Harry’s dulcet tones.  Dressing and packing by candlelight felt odd for some reason – it had seemed OK the previous night, but somehow candles in the morning are wrong!

 

Breakfast was a buffet, with a choice of scrambled eggs, yucca chips, fruit, yoghurt, bread etc. and VERY strong coffee (later I learned that it was a type of coffee essence and you’re supposed to mix it about half and half with water)!  We left our bags in the bar and headed off to an oxbow lake (memories of GCSE geography came flooding back!) where a family of giant river otters breed every year.

 

I can’t quite put into words the sight of the sun rising over the Amazonian jungle – it was awesome!  It definitely made getting up at 0420 worth while!  We took a boat about 15 mins upriver from the lodge and moored against a set of rickety wooden steps that looked like they led nowhere (which was broadly speaking true…) and began to walk towards the lake.  Walking through the rainforest early in the morning was very peaceful (the kids were too tired to ruin it by talking yet!) and after about 30 mins we reached the lake.  It is one of the most peaceful places I have ever been to! We stepped on board our viewing boat and glided out onto the lake.  The only sound the splash of the paddle, the creak of the boat and the spray of repellent cans as the kids doused themselves in poison!  Sadly we didn’t spot any otters (I may have glimpsed one for a fraction of a second, but I couldn’t be sure) but we did see heaps of birds, insects, fish (we caught some piranha when the kids got bored of looking at birds).  The cutest things by far were the bats we found sleeping on a tree trunk overhanging the water.

 

The journey back was a treat – we couldn’t get the boat back to the launch as the wind was against us, so in the end the guides pulled up to the bank, rigged the oar so it made a gangway to shore and made our way back to the river through the jungle with our guides cutting the trail with machetes as we went!  Proper jungle experience!

 

It was now nearly 10am and we should have been back at the lodge at 9!  Consequently we arrived back at the river boat to find the other half of the group (who had been up to the canopy tower close to the lodge) waiting for us and all of our things packed onto the boat, along with a welcome snack each.  We then began the MAMMOTH journey up river to the Tambopata Research Centre lodge.  We saw more wildlife on the way (including caiman) and made a couple of stops at other lodges to use their (variable) facilities.  At 1pm we were served lunch, again wrapped in leaves, this time of lomo saltado (with rice and chips of course – Peruvians don’t consider it a meal unless it contains 2 large helpings of complex carbohydrates!).

 

The sights were spectacular as we meandered upriver – constantly changing scenery and plenty of birds, but the journey was a little erratic – the river is wide, fairly shallow in places, quite fast flowing and after the floods last week, full of submerged rocks, trees, new sandbanks etc. to navigate around.  The friaje is causing a lot of the wildlife to stay at home in bed, so I took the opportunity, as did many of the kids, to have a nap. I hope I didn’t miss anything!

 

12 hours after I got up and we are STILL on the boat.  The mountains we flew over yesterday have come into view, but a distance we flew over in less than 30 mins yesterday has so far taken 6 hours by boat and we may still have another 2 hours left to go!  I’m not sure my bum can cope – I rarely sit for this long!

 

We arrived at dusk – the lodge is great, I’ve got a double room to myself with a view towards the kitchen and rainforest!  The view of the sky through the trees is mesmerising, even through the mosquito net.

 

By the time we’d met, gone through the rules, found out about the leishmaniasis risk in the area, eaten, washed up (normal tourists don’t do that obviously, but it’s good for the kids to have to look after their own mess for a change!) had a talk about the macaw project, and made the kids decide on their own experimental design project it was 2230, and with another 0430 start I went straight to sleep!

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The jungle diaries – day 1

May 24, 2008

I was incredibly excited to be told I would have to go to the jungle for 2 weeks with the IB biologists.  A lot of people appologised about it and said that normally the trip would be split between two staff – as if I WOULDN’T want to go for 2 weeks – how odd!

I was less excited when I found out I had to take 26 kids from school, to Cuzco on the plane on my own (the head of biology was meeting us in Cuzco).  Lima – Cuzco could have gone better!  One of the kids was nearly an hour late, and then halfway to the airport realised she didn’t have her passport with her (and had to get her driver to bring it to the airport for her).  One of the kids didn’t have his permisio notorial (there is a big problem with child trafficking in Peru.  If you want to travel with a child that is not yours you have to have a notorised document from BOTH parents, thankfully he had dual nationality and had his US passport.  The government don’t care if we steal foreign kids!) and another had forgotten her yellow fever certificate.  This stressed me slightly, but all worked out OK in the end!

The flight was fantastic – the view over the mountains just out of Cusco and the view over the jungle were magnificent!  When we landed in Puerto Moldonado there was something in the air and I knew I was in for an excellent trip.  We arrived in the middle of a friaje (cold spell) so it wasn’t too bad – about 25 degrees C and 98 % humidity, great in the day time but cold enough for a jacket at night.

1 hour or so by bumpy combi, our luggage strapped precariously on the roof, and then onto a river boat.  We were served lunch – chinese style rice wrapped up in leaves – and a view that the pictures don’t do justice to!

 

The lodge is fantastic, en-suite rooms that are open to the forest on one side!  You have your own hammock, table and chairs for relaxing in and a double bed with mosquite net.  No doors though – only a pair of curtains that close across the doorway.  There is a ’safety deposit box’ in each room – but it’s to put food in so the opposums don’t destroy your bags trying to get at it!

Bedroom at posada

We had a short lesson on statistics for biology (standard deviation, t-tests and chi squared) and then got ready for dinner.  Thr food was OK, but the most amazing thing about the evening were the stars.  I can’t get over how many of them there are and how bright they look!  The patterns are completely unfamiliar too, being in the Southern hemisphere.

After dinner we did a night solo.  THe guides took us into the forest and left us on our own without our torches for 20 mins.  It was great, warm, dark, insect noises, stars glimmering through the canopy, just me, in the dark, in peace – bliss, could have stayed there for hours, not just 20 mins.  Some of the kids were TERRIFIED though!  Bed was welcome by the time I got there – especially as I had a 4 am start the next day…

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Palacala

March 29, 2008

At 0330 when the earthquake woke me up I began to wonder whether taking 15 kids on a walk from 2000m up to a waterfall at 2800m, in terrain where there are frequent rockfalls and mudslides when it rains, was really such a good idea. However at 0700 when I arrived at school I’d forgotten that the earthquake had happened – I thought it was just a bad dream! It was only at about 0800, when the kids’ parents started to ring their mobiles to see if we’d felt the second earthquake that we got a little concerned. However after a call to the local police, who said that Palacala was unaffected, we continued in the minibus towards our starting point. Passing a number of fresh rockfalls on the road there did make us all a little uneasy though.

rock-fall.jpg

The falls at Palacala are being developed as a tourist attraction, as such the route is well marked on stones along the way! However by British standards it’s hardly a touristy walk. It is almost entirely uphill to the falls, and although there is a marked path it is not easy going! It’s at a much higher altitude than I’m used to (we got out of the minibus at abot 2000 m and the falls are at about 2800 m) and there are places where you have to scramble rather than walk. There is also a 2 sol (40 p) charge to walk in the area (1 sol for students and school groups – lucky us!)

start-village.jpgsigns.jpggoing-up.jpg

The views were spectacular, the surrounding mountains are huge and the tops are lost in mist! We passed a number of small settlements on our way and also bumped into some of the locals (and their donkeys!). We were accompanied on the walk by a friendly black dog (who looked a bit like Skipper in the face, for those of you who remember him). He was a bit mangy – there were a couple of patches of red, bare skin near his tail, but he seemed delighted to join our pack for the day (he tried to get into the minibus when we got back too, which was less helpful).

donkeys-on-path.jpgstunning-view.jpglocals.jpg

The weather for the ascent was lovely, warm and sunny, until we got to just below the falls, then the mist came down (or perhaps we’d walked into it). At first the coolness of it was a welcome change, but then it started to get a little cold. Just as we got to the falls and began to eat lunch it started to rain. Real rain, not like the sort you get in Lima! Followed quite quickly by some impressive rolls of thunder. Most of the kids hadn’t got any waterproofs (neither did I as mine are still in a box in the Port for some reason along with my walking boots…) and so we all got wet and cold quite quickly. Because of this it was a short lunch break before we turned round and headed back. The dog LOVED lunchtime – he was spoiled with tit-bits from everyone’s pack-up.

we-are-there.jpgthe-falls.jpg

The journey back seemed much shorter than the journey up, despite the rain. That is until we got to the ‘alternitive’ route down, that was steeper and less well maintained than the route we’d walked up. This is apparently a lot more typical of tracks when walking in Peru, and was really to show the kids what they could expect fom the next walk, and why they should buy proper walking boots! This was the only part of the walk where I really wished I was walking in my boots and not my trainers. It was VERY slippy – hills in Peru seem mainly to be made of gravel and sand. That is until you slip over, then it magically turns into lumps of jagged granite.

going-down.jpg

It was really good to get out of Lima for a bit and see some other parts of Peru. Having something constructive to do, that wasn’t work, made a nice change. I actually think that it’s the first weekend when I haven’t ended up walking to Larco Mar and getting a coffee. When I unpacked my bag I found a good example of Boyle’s law. I had put an empty water bottle, with its lid on, in my bag at the falls. This is what it looked like closer to sea level…

bottle.jpg